Ever wondered how, exactly, pants work*? What kind of crazy pattern-making sorcery goes into drafting a pant? If you’ve ever looked at a “from scratch”…
2 CommentsCategory: Pattern Drafting
You probably won’t finish this demo with an overwhelming sense of “Whoa! *Mind*blown*,” but I thought I’d put this out there. Also, I’m in the…
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Miss me? ;) If you have done up a torso draft with my sneaky mathless draft, you might be wondering how to turn that into a…
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Normally when you draft a block, you take a bunch of measurements, then use fractional amounts of them to draft half the body. Often, you…
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A yoke is a fitted band at the top of a skirt that takes the place of a waistband. Instead of sitting up around the…
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Oh, the terrible raglan sleeve! I lived through the 80’s. I still have nightmares about these things (bolstered out by shoulder pads, of course). On…
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Collar and undercollar, if you want to get all technical about it. These pieces will be truly drafted, which is exciting! The first thing we…
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No, not grade like what I do when my students turn in patterns! Grading a pattern is the process of sizing it up (or down). It sounds fairly intimidating, especially if you’ve ever seen any of the mysterious old-school tools for “assisting” in the process. (They’re a strange array of bars and levers, and I have absolutely no mortal clue what they’re meant to do or how they’re meant to do it.) Fortunately, there’s a quick and dirty way to grade a pattern…
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Oh, the medieval romance of the sleeve with the little pointsy-doo that falls gracefully over your hand… So lovely. The problem is that half the time something goes wrong and you end up with a sleeve that looks like it’s flipping you off – the point doesn’t follow your hand (unless you put a loop on it), it doesn’t lie smoothly, it wrinkles at the wrist… It can look so sweet, but it can go soooooo wrong. Here’s a drafting trick I picked up in a Bridal Couture class a few years back.
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Ok, so you know I’m gonzo about le moulage, right? It’s basically a princess line dress, with no ease. That makes it a pretty accurate model of a specific human’s torso. But what the heck do I do with that information? I’m working with two remote clients right now, and they’ve sent me back their moulages (with notes – nothing is perfect the first go). For Haley, I need to draft a regency style corset for her Elizabeth Bennet inspired dress. Here’s how to go from Moulage (or any other princess-line sloper you’ve got handy) to the least moulage like thing I can think of – an 1820s corset. ;)
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